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Author | Topic: capy power supply |
rafe Member |
![]() ![]() ![]() Does anyone know whether the internal connections on the power supply in the capybara need to be moved when changing the voltage (110v : 220v)? I am using a wall socket in a hotel that is not grounded but it is outputting 220v and fused at 10 amps as is the local standard- (I have tested this). The capy case is live, I cannot leave my finger on it! The current is that strong. I have checked to make certain there are no loose connections and i have physically isolated/ insulated the capy so the voltage is definitely from the power supply. By this I mean - the capy was placed on a thick folded blanket then placed on the wooden table and it standing alone, no flame, no computer only ac. After this I lifted the ground from the north american style plug so that it is a two prong plug, then adapted to the local standard two prong plug, and still the case is live. None of the other equipment are showing this problem. thanks rafe IP: Logged |
mathis Member |
![]() ![]() ![]() Are you in Poland? There they have unearthed power... What you can try is turning the power plug 180 degrees. Sometimes it helps. IP: Logged |
SSC Administrator |
![]() ![]() ![]() You ought to ground the case (at the very least to protect yourself). When the ground connection of any electronic device is lifted, the internal ground of the device (and often its case) is allowed to float to any potential and often will seek a level relative to one leg of the AC input. This is very dangerous! If you must lift the ground connection, connect a wire from the lifted ground pin to the earth: a water pipe or grounding rod (like a lightning arrestor ground). IP: Logged |
rafe Member |
![]() ![]() ![]() thanks for the input I have tried rotating the plug to alternate the phase - no luck. I have a household type transformer that converts 220 to 110 and when the capy was connected this way the standing voltage is non existant. however i only have the possibility of using a max of around 80 w ( ?? its not listed on the device and i am going by memory ) and it is still not grounded so that part of the problem is not solved. I am concerned about using devices connected to multiple voltage types and all connected together - ie capy at 110 - flame at 220 - laptop - 220. The original voltage problem was also coupled to the flame via the multipin connection but the case of the flame wasn't live just the edge of the multipin. any other ideas thanks IP: Logged |
SSC Administrator |
![]() ![]() ![]() I would suggest using 220 v for everything and run a ground wire from the Capybara case to some nearby source of ground. Definitely use the same power source for all devices or you may find large ground currents flowing through small signal wires (like the FireWire cable or an audio cable, or a printed circuit board trace). A fully loaded Capybara draws less than 110 watts, the Flame less than 20 watts, your laptop less than 80 watts. For newer electronic devices, you can divide the stated power by 0.75 to get the maximum AC power (for example, the laptop might have a 60 watt power supply, giving 80 watt max AC). IP: Logged |
rafe Member |
![]() ![]() ![]() Yes the earth grounding rod is a great idea, however their are no metal conductors in or near the room. All plumbing and conduit is plastic and the only metal object is an eye hook in the ceiling, i'm not sure that is enough, the building is brick and morter. Mind you if I did use that eye hook the mosquito netting would give the bugs a good jolt. thanks IP: Logged |
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